These socks almost never happened. This is attempt number 4 to make this particular pattern work with this yarn… I nearly died from frustration while making these. The droplet shaped cable pattern was originally intended to resemble rain, now I think of them as the tears I wanted to shed over my failures with this pattern. Now that they are finished I am completely in love with them; of all the socks I have made these have the best fit. And now that I’ve worked out all the problems you can benefit from my mistakes.
I Am Trying To Break Your Heart
These are probably not a good choice if you are making your first pair of socks, as the pattern is written with the assumption that the maker has made socks before. I have included my stitch numbers and measurements, but after several failed attempts to follow numbers from other patterns I think that socks should really be customized to the wearer and the gauge most comfortable to knit. This pattern is for two toe-up socks with gussets and heel flaps on one circular needle but you could easily knit these socks in whatever manner you prefer.
Yarn: Colinette Jitterbug, colorway Elephant’s Daydream. I used less than one skein for US women’s size 9 feet, but I like ankle socks. If you want to make a longer cuff, you will need two skeins.
Sticks: US 0 (2mm) 40 inch circular. I knit very loosely, so use whatever needle size you need to get gauge.
Gauge: 8 stitches and 12.5 rows per inch.
Finished Size: Unstretched sock measures approximately 7 inches around. These socks comfortable fit my foot, which is approximately 9 inches measured around the ball of the foot.
Special Stitches: Cable 2 behind 1: Slip two stitches to cable needle and hold to back of work, knit next stitch from left needle, knit two stitches from cable needle.
Cable 1 in front of 2: Slip one stitch to cable needle and hold to front of work, knit next two stitches from left needle, knit one stitch from cable needle.
Pattern Chart: Pattern is worked over 38 stitches and 16 rows. You will probably need have more stitches on the top of the foot than on the sole. Created using Jacquie’s brilliant chart maker.
Note: Only use the stitches to the left of the /s, so a / will always mean ssk, a \ will always mean k2tog, a dot will always mean p1, and a blank square will always mean k1.
First you will need to decide how many stitches to use for your socks. The pattern stitch on the foot is 38 stitches wide, so use your gauge to calculate how many stitches should be on the sole. I used 30 stitches on the sole for a total of 68 stitches, but you can use whatever number will get you the right size sock. If you’re not sure how to decide, a good rule is to measure around your foot and multiply the measurement by your gauge, then take 90% of that number and round it to the nearest even number to get your total stitch count. Subtract 38 from that to get the number of stitches you will have on the sole.
Using Judy’s Magic Cast-On, cast on 16 stitches, 8 stitches per needle for each sock. You can start with any even number of stitches you feel comfortable with. Knit one round. Knit the toe increases in whatever method you like best, I like lifted increases (m1r and m1l) best.
1: [k1, m1r, k to last st, m1l, k1] repeat for sock 2 top, sock 2 sole, sock 1 sole.
2: k all stitches
Repeat these two rounds until you have 30 stitches (or your desired number of sole stitches) on each needle for each sock. Repeat these two rounds 4 more times, increasing only on the top of the socks, until you have 38 stitches on the top needle for each sock (68 stitches total per sock if you have 30 sole stitches).
Knit the chart pattern on the top of the socks and stockinette stitch on the soles until the socks are 2 inches shorter than the desired finished length.
I made gussets and heel flaps for my socks, but you can do your heel however you want. The numbers in this section are for a sock that has 30 stitches on the sole.
1: Knit appropriate row of chart across the top of both socks, [k1, m1l, k to last stitch, m1r, k1] across the soles of both socks.
2: k all
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 five more times, for a total of 44 stitches on each sole, 82 total stitches per sock.
Knit the heel extension on sock 2.
1: k14, place marker, ssk, k14, place marker, leave remaining 14 unworked
2: turn, p2tg, p stitches between markers
3: turn, ssk, k stitches between markers
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until 6 stitches remain between the markers. End after a wrong side row. Remove markers.
Prepare to knit the heel flap on sock 2.
1: turn, sl 1 knitwise, k across heel, pick up and knit 10 stitches along the side of the feel extension
2: turn, sl 1 purlwise, p across heel, pick up and purl 10 stitches along the side of the heel extension
Knit the heel flap on sock 2:
Now you will join the gusset stitches to the side of the heel flap as it is knit. The directions are written for eye of partridge stitch, but you can do it a different way if you like.
1: turn, sl 1 knitwise, [k1, sl1] to last stitch before gusset stitches, ssk
2: turn, sl 1 purlwise, p to last stitch before gusset stitches, p2tog
3: turn, sl 2 knitwise, [k1, sl1] to last stitch before gusset stitches, ssk
4: turn, sl 1 purlwise, p to last stitch before gusset stitches, p2tog
Repeat these 4 rows until all the gusset stitches on both sides have been incorporated, end after working a purl row. Pick up and twist two additional stitches at the end of the row to close gaps. Turn and knit across all stitches, pick up and twist two additional stitches at the end of the row to close gaps. There should be 30 stitches on the sole needle of sock 2.
Repeat the heel extension and heel flap for sock 1.
Leg and Cuff:
Continue to work the top of the sock in the chart pattern and work the portion above the heel in stockinette stitch until desired length is reached. Work 1 inch of twisted k1p1 ribbing. Bind off using sewn bind-off method. Weave in ends and send me pictures.
This pattern has not been test-knit. If you find any errors, or have any questions, please contact me.
This pattern is intended for your personal use only. Please do not post this pattern on any other site or claim it as your own. Please ask permission before selling finished objects made from this pattern.